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making sake 2/21. Rice Milling
Before entering the preparation stage, the rice is cleared from its cuticle, a brown and bitter envelop. The rice is then polished. During this step, each grain is literally shaved, cleared from its most external layers leaving only the core that is used to make sake. In this process, rice can lose more than 75% of its weight. The degree of rice milling (SEMAIBUAI) is going to determine the class of sake.
This process is more complex than it appears. The rice can't be heated too much as that would allow water to penetrate during steaming, and it shouldn't be broken or cracked, as that would alter the quality of the fermentation process.
2. Washing and rinsing rice
When the milling process is complete, a white powder is left. That is then washed. What results is called NUKA. This is then soaked to allow it to start absorbing water. The level of rice milling determines the amount of water to be used and the soaking time (from few minutes to overnight). Interestingly enough, this NUKA product, resulting from the rice milling, is also often used for cooking or in cosmetics industry.
3. Steaming rice
Rice is steamed in a pot called a KOSHIKI. The steam comes from above, so the rice is never mixed with water during this step. The cooked rice becomes hard on the outside and tender on the inside. A portion of this cooked rice is used to prepare KOJI, and the remainder is placed in the fermentation tanks.
3. Making KOJI
KOJI is the fermented rice product and looks like a dark brown powder when dried. It's preparation is a key process in sake brewing, and this step is done in a special room, the KOJIMURO, where humidity and temperature are highly controlled. The KOJI is spread-out and cooled. It is allowed to ferment for 36 to 48 hours. KOJI is the "baby" of brewing masters, and is cared for with special attention.
It is checked regularly, mixed and rearranged constantly. The final product looks like slightly worn rice, releasing delicate chestnut scents. Koji is used at least four times during the sake making process, and is prepared fresh each time.
5. Fermentation
To develop and multiply, yeasts are then added to the mix of rice, water & KOJI. This mixture is placed into tanks full of steamed rice. The yeast will ferment the rice for 18 to 32 days, transforming the large molecules of sugar already present in rice, into alcohol. This white fermenting mixture is called MOROMI, and will grow to more than double the volume, and is moved step by step into larger tanks. The temperature of MOROMI is controlled and adjusted in order to obtain the perfect profile of flavour.
6. Pressing
Once the fermentation process is over, the resulting MOROMI is pressed. White lees (KASU) and solid leftovers are eliminated. A clear fluid is finally drained off, this is sake. For the best sakes, the ancient method consists of pressing MOROMI using large linens. This method is still used. The resulting KASU is often used for cooking as well.
7. Filtration and pasteurisation
After few days of rest, the sake is filtered. This step is important to give sake its own style, and each brewer has his own savoir-faire. There is also an unfiltered form of sake called NGORIZAKE. Sake is pasteurized at least once by circulating it through a hose immersed in hot water. This process deactivates enzymes, putting a final stop to any remaining fermentation. There is also a non-pasteurized form of sake called NAMAZAKE. Its taste is slightly different than pasteurised sake, and must be kept cold
8. Maturation
Sake has to age for at least six months to maturate and refine. Water might be added to adjust its taste or control its alcoholic degree. If no water is added, the type of sake is called GENSHU. Sake is then pasteurized one more time, before being bottled.
Evolutionary methods
Through the centuries, brewers in KURAS competed to improve the quality of sake or to reduce costs.
One of the greatest strides forwards was improvement of rice milling equipment. In ancient times, brewers were stepping on rice to shell it. Later, wheels and pumice stones were used. Today, computer controlled equipment is in charge of this very sensitive stage. The pressing process has been modernized as well. Until the 20th century, sake was pressed by pouring MOROMI into linen disposed into large wood boxes. A lid was placed on top of the box and pushed down. Sake is now pressed with a large accordion like machine composed of large inflatable balloons. Many attempts to improve KOJI preparations have been made through ages. A slight difference in this process can alter final result significantly. Traditionally, KOJI was made in warm and humid wood covered rooms. KOJI is now formulated in stainless steel covered rooms, to minimize the risk of fungus or yeasts contamination. |
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L'abus d'alcool est dangereux pour la santé - A consommer avec modération
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Introduction